Ullswater Cruise

Ullswater 11th August 2009

If you wanted to be really pedantic, you could say there’s only one lake in England’s Lake District. That’s Bassenthwaite Lake. All the others have the words ‘–water’ or

‘–mere’ incorporated into their names, thereby making the addition of ‘Lake’ a tautology.

In actual fact, it’s generally accepted there are sixteen; Elterwater and Brotherswater seem to take it in turns to occupy the No. 16 slot, with the loser slipping out of the league tables entirely.

Three of the bigger lak … I mean, bodies of water … have pleasure cruises on them. Usually, they’re called the Lake Steamers, although only one of them, Coniston Water’s Gondola, is actually powered by steam. But, the Tern on Windermere, and Raven and Lady of the Lake on Ullswater once were … and all three are well over 100 years old, but with their ‘new’ diesel engines, are still giving sterling service.

At some stage, there’s been a boat named Lady of the Lake on all three lakes; the Victorians loved their Sir Walter Scott. Not the same boat, of course, although the old lady on Ullswater was built in 1877, and is believed to be the oldest working passenger vessel in the world. The only alteration, apart from her diesel engine is that there is now an enclosed wheelhouse. When she was built, the helmsman stood exposed to the elements.

The poet William Wordsworth once said that the best way to behold the Lake District’s mountains was to view them from one of the lakes. But, the lake itself is worthy of consideration, especially if the cloud is down, and you can’t see the mountains.

We sailed on Ullswater on the Raven, 120 years old this year, and looking like she just left the boatyard; like all four boats, painted green and with immaculately varnished woodwork. ‘It is questionable if there be any boat to beat, or even equal this little craft on any lake in this country’. said a contemporary newspaper report, shortly after its launch.

The boats leave Glenridding, at the southern end of the lake, and sail to Pooley Bridge at the northern, calling at Howtown, on the east bank, on the way. You don’t have to go the whole way, though. You could take the steamer part of the way, and combine it with a pleasant lakeside walk.

The operators claim the steamers are an excellent way to ‘explore England’s most beautiful lake’. I’d disagree with that, but only slightly. But then, I’m biased; I’m from Windermere!

Find out more about the Ullswater steamers athttp://www.ullswater-steamers.co.uk My latest article is at http://www.giftedtravel.com/the-great-stones-at-avebury