Therissos 9th May 2007

Some people say that going to Crete without walking the Samaria Gorge is like going to Egypt, and not visiting the Pyramids.

There are, however, many other gorges on Crete. Many are much more easily achievable than Samaria; most are open all year round, and inaccessible only in the most extreme weather, unlike Samaria, which is always closed in winter. Maybe these are a possibility for those who don’t get around so well … or maybe just don’t fancy the aches and pains associated with Samaria.

One of the easiest to access in the Therissos Gorge, about 10 miles south of Xania. This is accessible to just about anyone. Some of the rock scenery is almost as spectacular as Samaria, but a big plus is that it has a motorable road to Therisso, the village at the head of the gorge.

A good way to traverse the gorge is on one of the ‘land trains’, which leave Platanias at 11.30 every morning. In 2005, while I was schlepping down Samaria , my wife rode up to Therissos on such a train and, two years later, thought I’d try it for myself. Generally, they drive up through the orange groves, and, if you come in May, there’s an unbelievable flowery scent in the air.

A statue of Eleftherios Venizelos, a prominent Greek statesman, and its first Prime Minister … and, first and foremost, a Cretan …overlooks the plateia in Therissos village, and a sign at the entrance of the gorge tells us we are now entering the Eleftherios Venizelos Gorge. But, as much as Mr. Venizelos is admired, this alternative name doesn’t seem to get used very much.

The narrow road rises steeply, and even more steep are the slopes above, which are coated with scrub. The floor of the gorge, with the rounded boulders in its dried-up river-bed showing how fiercely the water can come down there in the wet season, is covered with deciduous trees. The purple leaves of ‘Dragon’s Tongue, closely related to our own cuckoo pint, are everywhere. The occasional goat, grazing amongst the trees, can also be seen.

But, when we’ve reached the village, seemingly a world away from the hordes of ‘kalimari and chips’ sun-seekers down on the coast, an incongruous note seems to be struck. Off to one side is a war museum! It was locked at the time of my visit, and no one was around. The collection inside looked fairly comprehensive though, and several dilapidated artillery pieces stood forlornly outside, with the grass and weeds rapidly taking them over.

The best views, I think, can be had on the way back down, Caves, hollows and side-valleys appear in the red cliffs above, which didn’t seem to be noticed on the way up.

Presently, we are once more back in the orange groves. And, almost inevitably, there’s a stop at a roadside stall so the ‘orange-man’ can sell his wares.